The Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul

Istanbul AttractionsThe Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul

The Minaret of the Eski Mosque—a forgotten witness to Byzantium on Istanbul’s Fourth Hill

The Minaret of the Eski Mosque (Turkish: Eski İmaret Camii, “Old Imaret Mosque”) is the only 11th-century church in Istanbul that has survived almost entirely intact. Behind its modest facade, nestled among the residential buildings of the Zeyrek district, lies the former monastery of Christ Pantophtos—"the All-Seeing." In the early 13th century, this was the headquarters of the last Byzantine emperor before the fall of Constantinople; later, it housed a soup kitchen (imaret) for the Fatih Mosque under construction; and from here, Benedictine monks administered the church during the Latin occupation. The minaret of the Eski Mosque remains the least studied monument of the city’s Middle Byzantine architecture—and this is precisely what makes it so appealing to those who are tired of the tourist crowds in Sultanahmet.

History and Origin of the Eski Mosque Minaret

The history of the building dates back to the second half of the 11th century, during the Komnenos dynasty. Shortly before 1087, Anna Dalassina, mother of Emperor Alexios I Komnenos, founded a convent dedicated to Christ Pantoptos—"the All-Seeing"—on the summit of the fourth of Constantinople’s seven hills. She retired here at the end of her life, following a long-standing imperial tradition. The monastery complex included a church dedicated to the same Christ the All-Seeing, and it is this very church that has survived to the present day.

The most dramatic episode in the church’s history occurred on April 12, 1204. That night, Emperor Alexius V Doukas Mourzoufl set up his headquarters near the monastery: from the hilltop, he watched as the Venetian fleet under the command of Doge Enrico Dandolo maneuvered between the Evergetis Monastery and the Church of Blachernae. After a crushing assault by the Crusaders, the emperor fled, abandoning his purple tent—and it was in that tent that Baldwin of Flanders spent his night of victory. An echo of this event has been preserved in the Fourth Novgorod Chronicle: the Russian chronicler recounts how Murzufl climbed the dome of Pantopta to survey the enemy fleet in the Golden Horn.

After the complex was plundered by the Crusaders, it was handed over to Benedictine monks from the Roman monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, and during the Latin occupation of 1204–1261, the church became a Catholic church. After the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II converted the church into a mosque, and the monastery buildings into a zawiya (dervish lodge), a madrasa, and an imaret that served the nearby Fatih Mosque, which was under construction. It is from this soup kitchen that the current Turkish name derives: “The Old Imaret Mosque.”

The complex burned down several times, and the last remaining monastery buildings disappeared about a century ago. Until 1970, the building was used as a school for the study of the Quran, which effectively closed it off to architectural research. This is precisely why the Minaret of the Old Mosque is still referred to as “the least studied Byzantine church in Istanbul.”

The identification of the building with the Pantopta Monastery, accepted on faith for nearly two centuries, dates back to the Patriarch of Constantinople, Constantius I, who proposed this theory between 1830 and 1834. Most researchers of the 19th and 20th centuries repeated his conjecture without verification. It was not until the mid-20th century that Cyril Mango, the foremost expert on Byzantine topography, proposed an alternative location for Pantopta—on the site of the present-day Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque. German scholars Asutay-Effenberger and Effenberger supported Mango, reinforcing the hypothesis that Eski Imaret is an entirely different church. In any case, the building remains a genuine key to understanding the Komnenos era, even if its name is still a matter of debate.

Architecture and What to See

The building is situated on a steep slope facing the Golden Horn and rests on a platform—the roof of an ancient underground cistern, whose floor serves as the church’s floor. The structure is surrounded on all sides by later-built houses, which makes it very difficult to view from the outside. And yet, it is precisely this seclusion that gives the church a special atmosphere: it seems to be hiding within the fabric of the city, waiting for a careful glance.

Recessed brickwork—the oldest in Istanbul

The walls are built of brick and stone using the so-called “recessed brick” technique. Alternating rows of bricks are set back into the wall and filled with a thick layer of mortar—about three times thicker than the brick layers themselves. This is the oldest surviving example of this technique in Constantinople, which became a hallmark of Middle Byzantine architecture and later spread widely throughout Rus’. Architectural historians from all over the world come here specifically to see this detail.

Unique Brick Roof

Another rarity: the roof is covered not with lead sheets, as in most churches and mosques in Istanbul, but with brick tiles. During the Ottoman reconstruction, the undulating silhouette of the roof was concealed beneath a flat roof, and the dome was given a helmet-like shape. The 1970 restoration restored the dome’s original scalloped outline, characteristic of Macedonian-period churches, and returned the gallery’s tiled roof to the gentle curves of the vaults.

"Inscribed Cross" Plan and U-Shaped Gallery

The church’s plan belongs to the “inscribed cross” (quincunx) type: the central dome rests on four arms, with the altar to the east and the esonarthex and exonarthex to the west. The outer narthex, added later during the Palaiologos era, is divided into three sections: the side sections are covered by cross vaults, and the central section by a small dome. On the western side runs an exceptionally rare feature—a U-shaped gallery encircling the narthex and the two western arms. Its windows open onto both the naos and the arm of the cross. Most likely, this gallery was built for the personal use of the Empress Dowager Anna Dalassina herself.

Trilobate side chapels and traces of the Ottoman era

The four columns that once supported the space beneath the dome were replaced by massive pylons, and the side aisles lead to small trilobate side chapels—the prothesis and the diaconicon—which, like the main altar, feature semicircular apses. The Ottomans plastered the apses and added a minaret, which was later dismantled. During the 1970 restoration, architect Fikret Çuhadaroglu removed the broken altar minaret and restored the original forms. Traces of the second, “unauthorized” renovation of the 1990s are still visible in the masonry details.

Facade Decor

The exterior walls are decorated in places with decorative motifs—sunbeams, meanders, “wickerwork” in the form of a basket, and cloisonné masonry. The latter technique is characteristic of Greek architecture of this period, but is found nowhere else in Constantinople. Of the interior decoration from the Komnenos era, only the marble moldings, cornices, and door jambs have survived—no frescoes, no mosaics, and no iconostasis.

Interesting Facts and Legends

  • According to legend, it was from the dome of the Pantheoptos that Emperor Alexios V watched the Crusaders’ advance in April 1204. The greatest Byzantinist of the 20th century, Cyril Mango, personally climbed the dome of the Eski Imaret to verify the legend—and discovered that the Golden Horn is not visible from there: it is obscured by a neighboring hill. It was this experiment that cast doubt on the identification of the building with the Pantopopt.
  • Baldwin of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople, spent the night of victory right in the purple tent of the fleeing Murzulf, pitched against the monastery walls.
  • The Turkish name “Eski Imaret”—“Old Kitchen”—reminds us that immediately after 1453, the former monastery became a soup kitchen for the workers building the gigantic Fatih Mosque. The imaret also fed the poor of the neighborhood.
  • Since 1970, the building has been closed to the general public: it has been used alternately as a Koranic school and as a site of endless restoration. Work, which began in 2015 with plans to open in 2019, was unexpectedly put on hold and, as of 2024, is still ongoing.
  • German researchers Asutai-Effenberger and Effenberger have suggested that the building may not be Pantopom at all, but rather the Church of Saint Constantine, founded by Empress Theophano in the early 10th century—so much so does it resemble the contemporary Lipsa Monastery.

How to get there

The mosque is located in the Fatih district, in the Zeyrek neighborhood, less than a kilometer northwest of the more famous Zeyrek Mosque (the former Pantokrator Monastery). Landmarks for navigation are Küçükpazar Caddesi and Küçük Mektep Sokak: it is from this tiny street that the only decent view of the mosque opens up.

The most convenient way from Sultanahmet is to take the T1 tram (Kabataş–Bağcılar line) to the “Laleli-Üniversite” or “Aksaray” stop, then walk 15–20 minutes uphill. From Eminönü, it’s a half-hour walk through the Unkapanı district and the market streets. From the Fatih Mosque, it’s a 10-minute walk. From IST Airport, the most convenient way is to take the M11 metro to “Gayrettepe,” then the M2 to “Vezneciler,” and from there walk about 15 minutes uphill. From SAW Airport—take the Havabus to Kadıköy, then the ferry to Eminönü, and from there walk or take a taxi (about 10 minutes).

The Zeyrek district is one of the poorest areas within the old city walls; the streets are narrow and steep, with cobblestone pavements. Be prepared for a steep climb and uneven surfaces. Neither the tram nor the metro runs directly here, so you’ll have to walk the last 800–1,200 meters of the route in any case. If you’re traveling with children or elderly relatives, it’s best to take a taxi (on the Istanbul apps BiTaksi or iTaksi, a ride from Eminönü will cost 80–120 Turkish lira). Instead of the mosque’s name, show the driver the address “Küçükpazar, Küçük Mektep Sokak”—local taxi drivers know this specific street.

Tips for travelers

The main thing to know in advance: as of spring 2026, the building is still under restoration, and access inside is generally closed. However, the trip here is still worthwhile—viewing the facade, the neighboring streets of Zeyrek, and the panorama of the Golden Horn from the adjacent terraces are well worth the time spent. Check the access status before your visit on the city forums at istanbul.com and in the Turkish-language section of kultur.gov.tr.

The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon in spring (April–May) and fall (September–October). In summer, the marble pavement gets hot, and the steep streets in the shadow of the facades turn into stuffy corridors. In winter, rain and slippery stones are possible: shoes with non-slip soles are a must. Allow 45–60 minutes to explore the building itself and the surrounding neighborhoods; if you plan to combine your visit with the Zeyrek Mosque and the Fatih Mosque, allow 3–4 hours.

Russian-speaking travelers will find it interesting to recall that it was precisely the hidden-row masonry technique, first used here in Constantinople, that later came to Rus’ and was reflected in the pre-Mongol churches of Kyiv and Novgorod. For fans of Mandelstam and Gumilev, Zeyrek offers a rare chance to experience “another Constantinople”—the one that never made it onto postcards. Bring water, comfortable shoes, and a camera with a fast lens: there’s little sunlight in the narrow alleys.

Nearby sites for a combined itinerary: Zeyrek Camii (UNESCO site, 800 meters), Fatih Mosque (1 km), Valens Aqueduct (1.5 km), and the ancient Bonos Cistern (excavations are underway 200 meters away). If you head down to the Golden Horn, in 15 minutes you’ll find yourself at the Halic and can take a ferry to Balat—another atmospheric Byzantine-Ottoman neighborhood. The minaret of the Eski Mosque isn’t a postcard-perfect sight, but a quiet encounter with authentic Byzantium, and it is precisely in this quietness that its main charm lies.

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Frequently asked questions — The Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul Answers to frequently asked questions about The Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul. Information about the service's operation, capabilities, and use.
Eski Imaret Mosque—a former 11th-century Christian church, originally built as the main chapel of a convent on the fourth hill of Constantinople. Unlike most Istanbul mosques, which were converted from basilicas or built from scratch by the Ottomans, this building has preserved its Middle Byzantine structure virtually intact: an “inscribed cross” plan, a unique U-shaped gallery, and the city’s oldest masonry with a hidden row. It is precisely this combination of features that makes it the most valuable—and yet the least studied—monument of the Komnenos era.
“Recessed brickwork” is a technique in which alternating courses of bricks do not protrude from the wall’s surface but are set back and filled with a thick layer of mortar—approximately three times thicker than the brick courses themselves. The walls of the Eski Imaret are the oldest surviving example of this technique in Constantinople. It subsequently became a hallmark of Middle Byzantine architecture and spread to Rus’, where it influenced the construction of pre-Mongol churches in Kyiv and Novgorod. This is precisely why the building attracts architectural historians from around the world.
The question remains open. The traditional identification dates back to the Patriarch of Constantinople, Constantius I (1830–1834), and has been repeated by scholars for nearly two centuries without serious scrutiny. In the mid-20th century, Kirill Mango—one of the foremost experts on Byzantine topography—proposed an alternative location for the Pantheoptos at the site of the present-day Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque. German scholars Asutay-Effenberger and Effenberger supported this hypothesis, suggesting that Eski Imaret might be the 10th-century Church of Saint Constantine. In any case, the building indisputably dates to the Komnenos era and remains an authentic architectural document of that time.
The only surviving elements of the Komnenos-era interior decoration are the marble moldings, cornices, and door jambs. Neither the frescoes, nor the mosaics, nor the iconostasis have survived: the interior surfaces were plastered over during the Ottoman period, and subsequent renovations and the building’s use as a Koranic school until 1970 destroyed most of the decor. On the exterior, however, one can make out the decorative motifs of the facades: sun rays, meanders, a “woven basket” pattern, and cloisonné masonry—a technique characteristic of Greek architecture of that period, but found nowhere else in Constantinople.
The U-shaped gallery—a structural rarity—encircles the narthex and the two western arms of the church. Its windows open simultaneously onto the naos and the arm of the cross, allowing worshippers to observe the service while remaining separate from the main congregation. Most researchers believe that the gallery was built for the personal use of the monastery’s founder—Empress Mother Anna Dalassina—who retired here at the end of her life in accordance with imperial tradition.
After the conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II converted the church into a mosque and the monastery buildings into an imaret: a soup kitchen that fed the workers building the grand Fatih Mosque nearby, as well as the poor in the surrounding area. It is this function that has become ingrained in popular memory and gave the building its current Turkish name—the “Old Imaret Mosque.” When the imaret ceased to exist, the name remained.
Yes, directly. On the night of April 12–13, 1204, as the Crusaders stormed Constantinople, the last Byzantine emperor, Alexius V Doukas Mourzouflos, set up his headquarters near the monastery. According to legend, he climbed the dome of the Pantopta to observe the Venetian fleet in the Golden Horn. After the emperor’s flight, Baldwin of Flanders—the future first Latin Emperor of Constantinople—spent the victorious night in his purple tent. Cyril Mangos himself climbed the dome of the Eski Imaret to verify the legend, but found that the Golden Horn was not visible from there due to a neighboring hill—and it was precisely this fact that served as an argument against identifying the building with the Panthepopto.
The route is physically challenging: the Zeyrek district is located on a steep hill, the streets are narrow, the cobblestone pavement is uneven, and neither the tram nor the metro goes all the way to the mosque—you’ll have to walk the last 800–1,200 meters. For families with children or older travelers, it’s best to take a taxi (using the BiTaksi or iTaksi apps; from Eminönü, it costs about 80–120 Turkish lira) and give the driver the address “Küçükpazar, Küçük Mektep Sokak.” In winter, the cobblestones become slippery—shoes with non-slip soles are a must in any season.
Even though the interior is closed to the public, a view of the facades alone makes the trip worthwhile. From the outside, the Middle Byzantine brick-and-stone masonry is clearly visible, featuring decorative motifs such as meanders, interlacing, and cloisonné. The apses and the scalloped silhouette of the dome, restored in 1970, are visible. The adjacent terraces and nearby streets offer a panoramic view of the Golden Horn. The Zeyrek neighborhood itself is one of the few corners of Istanbul where the atmosphere of the old city has been preserved without tourist infrastructure.
Within a 1.5-kilometer radius of the Eski Imaret are: the Zeyrek Mosque (a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the former Pantokrator Monastery, 800 m), the Fatih Mosque (1 km), the Valens Aqueduct (1.5 km), and the ongoing excavations of the ancient Bonos Cistern (200 m). If you walk down to the Golden Horn—about a 15-minute walk—you can reach the Halic and take a ferry to Balat, another atmospheric Byzantine-Ottoman neighborhood. It is recommended to allow 3–4 hours for the full combined tour including the Zeyrek Mosque and the Fatih Mosque.
User manual — The Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul The Minaret of the Eski İmaret Mosque — A Guide to Istanbul User Guide with a description of the main functions, features, and principles of use.
Restoration work on the Eski Imaret has been underway since 2015 and, as of spring 2026, has not been completed—the building is generally closed to visitors. Before your trip, check the current status on the istanbul.com forum or in the Turkish-language section of the kultur.gov.tr portal. Even if you can’t get inside, viewing the facades and strolling through the Zeyrek neighborhood are well worth your time.
From Sultanahmet, the easiest way is to take the T1 tram (Kabataş–Bağcılar line) to the “Laleli-Üniversite” or “Aksaray” stop, and then walk uphill for 15–20 minutes. From IST Airport, the best route is: take the M11 metro to “Gayrettepe” → transfer to the M2 to “Vezneciler” → walk about 15 minutes uphill. From SAW Airport: take the Havabus to Kadıköy → take the ferry to Eminönü → walk or take a taxi (about 10 minutes). For travelers with children or elderly companions, it is more practical to take a taxi via the BiTaksi or iTaksi apps.
The Zeyrek district is situated on a steep slope with narrow cobblestone streets. Neither the tram nor the metro goes all the way to the mosque—you’ll have to walk the last 800–1,200 meters in any case. Wear comfortable shoes with non-slip soles: the pavement gets slippery in winter and after rain. Bring water with you, especially in the summer—it gets hot in the shade of the narrow alleys. A camera with a fast lens or a smartphone with a good camera will come in handy: there is little direct sunlight in the alleys.
Eski Imaret is tucked away between residential buildings and is hard to spot from the main streets. Look for Küçükpazar Caddesi and turn onto Küçük Mektep Sokak—this tiny street offers the only decent view of the building. If you’re taking a taxi, don’t give the driver the name of the mosque; instead, give him the address: “Küçükpazar, Küçük Mektep Sokak”—local taxi drivers know the street better than they know the building itself.
Walk around the perimeter of the building as far as the dense development allows. Note the brick-and-stone masonry with a hidden course—here it is preserved in its most ancient form. Examine the decorative motifs on the facades: meanders, “wattle-and-daub,” and cloisonné. Admire the restored scalloped outline of the dome, as well as the semicircular apses on the eastern side. Allow 30–40 minutes for a thorough inspection of the facades.
After touring the mosque, head up to the nearby terraces or find an open stretch of street facing north—from here, you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of the Golden Horn. A stroll through the alleys of Zeyrek gives you a sense of “another Istanbul”: the neighborhood is largely untouched by tourist infrastructure, with its wooden houses and quiet courtyards preserved.
From Eskı İmaret, it’s easy to plan a walking tour of the neighborhood: first, the Zeyrek Mosque (800 m, a UNESCO site), then the Fatih Mosque (1 km), and finally the Valens Aqueduct (1.5 km). If you still have energy left, head down to the Golden Horn and take the ferry to Balat—another historic neighborhood with Byzantine and Ottoman heritage. Allow 3–4 hours for the full route, including breaks and stops.